It’s Paris Fashion Week. Hundreds of fashion influencers, celebrities, and “insiders” alike are looking forward to one event: Louis Vuitton’s Fall-Winter 2017 runway show. Though guests were expecting extravagance–akin to Louis Vuitton’s then creative director Kim Jones’ typical runway shows–what they received was vastly unexpected. The catwalk began with a model, dressed in an otherwise boring white shirt and navy blazer, wearing a peculiar bright red bag with the word “Supreme,” boldly etched across the centre.
Suddenly, an applause could be heard while numerous guests raced to pull out their phones to record this moment. Why was this such a big deal?
Supreme, a cult New York skateboarding brand is a staple among street style enthusiasts. Ranging from t-shirts ($58) to motorcycles ($8,000), Supreme releases merchandise in hyper-limited quantities–generating excitement for every “drop.” Although Supreme is seen as an established company, many were surprised at Louis Vuitton’s decision to partner with the skateboarding brand.
The excitement of the crowd was evident. Forty-one different models followed one after another, each donning a Supreme branded Louis Vuitton garment. The models walked in a location that appeared to be a greenhouse, while European dance music blasted in the background. Despite the pleasant aesthetics of the show, I began to ask myself: What’s the theme? So I did some research.
Kim Jones stated that the collection “is inspired by the glory days of New York artists like Keith Haring, Jean-Michel Basquiat, [and,] Andy Warhol. It’s the time when anyone from anywhere went out and mixed together in clubs.” This sounds good in theory. Supreme is a genuine New York brand who have collaborated with all three of these artists. However, the theme of the collection feels like an afterthought. The designs of the clothing do not resemble the art of these pop-culture icons.
Not only did the clothing feel out of place, the location and music fell short of the theme. EDM and a sterile glass location do not feel indicative of the culture of New York in the 80’s, or even now! In my opinion, a set with Basquiat’s SAMO graffiti in the streets of the city playing iconic 80’s, funk or club would have been perfect for the artist’s intended vision. Of course, art is open to interpretation, but I believe the theme was chosen to justify how mismatched this collaboration was.
However, my biggest problem with the collection has nothing to do with the clothes or the theme. Rather, I am hesitant regarding the shift in tone from elite brands such as Louis Vuitton. Years earlier, the demographic that purchased Supreme were seen as undesirable. In fact 17 years ago, Louis Vuitton sent Supreme a cease and desist for using the brand’s famous monogram on a t-shirt. Established fashion houses have no desire to preserve and celebrate culture, whether it be hip-hop or skateboarding. With Louis Vuitton’s stagnant sales in 2017 (the year of this collaboration), they have appointed Kanye West’s muse: Virgil Abloh as their new creative director. With future collections containing clear hip-hop influences, Louis Vuitton is experiencing a period of renewed excitement and increased sales. Brands like Supreme must be cautious of these luxury brands, who won’t hesitate at adopting the next trend.
Han-Kim 